four ways to quickly understand peony cultivation

 chinese tree peonies have been a symbol of wealth in china . Today, the demand for tree peonies is still very high. This is true both at home and in the market, especially during festivals. People often look for good metaphors related to them. So, what is the difference between planting chinese tree peonies and planting other flowers?

tree Peony growing environment, because it likes warm, cool and dry places, but also like the sun, can fight the cold, fight drought, so relatively simple, can be planted flowers And in the florist planting time must choose more loose soil, had better be the drainage good place to carry on the planting.

Now, rockii tree peonies are found all over chinese. Some experts have studied rockii tree peony varieties. They found that most are wild or semi-wild. There are also some types that are grown in gardens. And when the florist is planting, most of it is used for gardening, that is, to provide supplies for the market and there are many ways to reproduce it

Cuttage propagation

a new method of using its branches to produce adventitious roots. It is also a method of asexual propagation, which is to cut the branches off the plant and then put them into the soil

Will allow it to take root and create new pillars, either by selecting the shoots from the current year, or by selecting a few, seemingly nutritious strips of paper between 10 cm and 18 cm in length before pruning. Use this method based on how it prefers to be dry. Consider the features that help fight drought. Choose a well-ventilated area, but keep it intact. Make sure to water it thoroughly in one go.

This was done in the Ming Dynasty by taking out the full-grown tree peony flower and cutting it from the root. How many times do we have to cut it? How big is it? Depending on the size of each plant, usually three to four branches can be divided into one, and there must be a very complete system, followed by some sulphur powder and some earth

The above wounds can be applied evenly for planting, and the-minute time is best in the fall of the year when the frost comes, when the temperature and surface temperature are relatively high and it is in a dormant state

So there is still a long period of time to need vegetative growth, and the ramets on its growth is not too much impact. If it’s too late, its roots will grow too weak, or it won’t be able to produce new roots, and it will grow weaker the next year, so it’s more likely to die.

Grafting

which is used because of Kaneki’s different and divided into two kinds, one is the wild tree peony, one is the root of herbaceous peony, and the more commonly used grafting method is the embedding method, the embedding method is the root of paeoniarockii as rootstock

Because the root of Paeonia lactiflora pall is originally very soft, so it is also very easy to be grafted, and the nutrition is also very sufficient. After grafting, the initial growth will be very vigorous. If the root of peony is grafted, it is woody and hard Grafting time is more difficult, but life will be very long, so the flower farmers choose which to use according to the conditions in their region to choose.

Ventral grafting

which is an improved method of grafting a number of branches using a bad variety, is used to select the best one between the first half of July and the middle of August

First select some plants that have not been attacked by pests, subtract some of the above branches or short branches to be grafted. After that, in addition to not being irrigated, keeping it growing at the right temperature and humidity is a way of cultivating multiple varieties, as well as multiple colors on a single plant.

Tips to master before planting paeonai rockii

 Making adequate preparations before planting paeonia rockii is the key to success! paeonia rockii are “lazy flowers”, but if the initial foundation is laid, subsequent maintenance will be very worry-free, and they can be enjoyed for more than ten years or even decades. The following are the key preparations that need to be done before planting paeonia rockii:

01. Choose the best planting time

Autumn is the golden time (usually late September to early November in the northern hemisphere): This is the main planting season for paeonia rockii. At this time, the temperature drops and the soil temperature is still relatively warm, which is conducive to the growth and recovery of the root system before winter dormancy, laying a solid foundation for flowering in the spring of the following year. The specific time is adjusted according to the local climate, and it is best to complete the planting 4-6 weeks before the soil freezes.

Early spring (only in certain circumstances): If you buy container seedlings (with pots), you can plant them after the soil thaws in early spring, but the flowering in the first year may be affected and more delicate maintenance is required. It is strongly not recommended to plant bare-root paeonia rockii in spring. Avoid summer and severe winter.

02. Choose the right place to plant

Sufficient sunlight: paeonia rockii are sun-loving plants and need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day(preferably full sun). Insufficient sunlight will cause the plant to grow too long, bloom sparsely or even not bloom.

Good drainage: absolutely critical! paeonia rockii are very afraid of waterlogging. If the roots are soaked in water for a long time, they will quickly rot and die. Choose a place with higher terrain and less water accumulation. Avoid low-lying areas, rain pits, and directly under large trees (not only shade, but the roots will also grab water and fertilizer).

Soil requirements: Prefer deep, fertile, loose and breathable, neutral or slightly alkaline (pH 6.5-7.5) soil. Sandy loam or loam is ideal.

Space reservation: Consider the crown width of the paeonia rockii after adulthood (generally it can grow to 0.8-1.5 meters wide), leave enough growth space to ensure good ventilation and reduce diseases. Avoid being too close to walls or other large plants.

03. Improve the soil (create a comfortable home for the roots)

Deeply plow the soil: In the selected planting area, deep plowing is carried out (it is recommended to dig at least 50-60 cm deep and more than 60 cm wide). Break the hard soil layer and increase air permeability.

Improve drainage: If the soil is heavy (such as clay):

04. Prepare planting holes (dig a large hole for good rooting)

The hole should be large and deep: Even for very small bare-root seedlings, it is recommended to dig a planting hole with a diameter of 60 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm. A large hole is conducive to the free expansion of the root system and the absorption of water and nutrients.

Backfill soil preparation: Mix the excavated original soil with a large amount of decomposed organic fertilizer (such as decomposed cow dung/sheep dung/compost) and a small amount of bone meal (provide phosphorus fertilizer, promote rooting and flowering). The amount of organic fertilizer can be large, accounting for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the total amount of backfill soil. Ensure even mixing to avoid concentrated fertilizer burning of roots.

Pre-watering: A few days before planting, you can fill part of the hole (about half the height) with the prepared backfill soil, then water it thoroughly and let the soil settle naturally, which will help determine the correct depth for subsequent planting.

05. Select and prepare paeonia rockii seedlings

Handling bare-root seedlings:

Plant as soon as you receive them. If you can’t plant them immediately, you can transplant them in moist sand or put them in a cool place with a wet cloth wrapped around the roots.

Check the root system before planting and cut off dry, rotten or overly long roots (healthy roots can be left 20-30 cm).

Soak the roots in a fungicide solution such as carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl for 10-15 minutes to disinfect them, and then plant them after drying (optional but recommended to reduce diseases).

Important notes

Depth is key: When planting, make sure the “buds” of thepaeonia rockii (the red buds at the junction of the root neck) are buried about 3-5 cm below the soil (up to 5-7 cm deep in cold northern regions). Planting too shallow will expose the buds and make them susceptible to freezing and drought, while planting too deep will affect flowering and even cause root rot and death.

“Plant once, enjoy the flowers for many years”: paeonia rockii do not like to be transplanted. Transplanting will greatly damage the root system and cause them not to bloom for several years. Be sure to choose the right location once and don’t move it again after planting.

Avoid land with a “previous record”: If this land has been used to plant paeonia rockii, paeonia rockii or other ranunculaceae plants before, it is best to plant them again after an interval of more than 3-5 years, or completely replace the soil in the pit to avoid soil-borne diseases (such as root rot, wilt) and soil nutrient imbalance.

Subsequent preparations

Watering plan: Immediately after planting, water the roots once, and water thoroughly (even if the soil is wet). After that, keep the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged until it freezes, depending on the weather conditions. Pay attention to water supply after budding in spring, especially before and after flowering.

Winter protection (cold regions): In the cold northern regions, for newly planted paeonia rockiior precious varieties, a thick layer of pine needles, straw, leaf mold or special coverings can be placed at the base of the roots to keep warm before the soil freezes, and the coverings should be removed in time before buds sprout in spring. Avoid covering the plants with airtight materials (such as plastic sheets) as this can easily cause bud rot.

Fully understand the growth habits ofpaeoniarockii in summer

 The growth habits of paeoniarockii in summer are mainly affected by its native environment (arid and cool areas in northwest China), showing the following characteristics:

1. Like coolness, avoid high temperature and humidity:
   This is the core growth habit of paeoniarockii in summer. They are very intolerant to high temperature and humidity.
   When the temperature continues to exceed 30°C, especially when the humidity is high at the same time (such as the plum rain season in the south and the hot weather in North China), the plant will enter a semi-dormant or growth stagnation state.
   High temperature and high humidity are the biggest threats to the poor growth and outbreak of diseases and pests of paeoniarockii.
2. Like sufficient light, but need appropriate shade:
   paeoniarockii is a sun-loving plant, and it needs sufficient light (at least 6 hours a day) during the growth period to ensure strong growth and flower bud differentiation.
   However, in the hot summer (especially at noon and afternoon), strong direct sunlight will burn the leaves and aggravate high temperature stress. Therefore, in high-temperature areas in summer (especially in the south and low-altitude areas), it is necessary to provide about 50%-70% shade (such as shade nets, next to big trees) to avoid leaf burns and reduce the temperature around the plant.
3. Drought resistance and fear of waterlogging:
   The root system of paeoniarockii is well-developed and fleshy, and it is very afraid of waterlogging. Summer is a season of concentrated rainfall and frequent rainstorms. Poor drainage is fatal and can easily lead to root rot.
   Although it is drought-resistant, during the hot and dry summer period, the soil still needs to be kept moderately moist to avoid excessive drought affecting the vitality of the plant and even causing the leaves to burn. Watering should follow the principle of “see dry and wet”, avoid frequent small watering, and the best time to water is in the early morning or evening.
4. Post-flowering growth and new bud differentiation:
   After the spring flowering period ends (usually in late May and early June), the growth focus of paeoniarockii shifts to vegetative growth (branch and leaf growth) and flower bud differentiation (preparing for flowering next year).
   Summer (June-August) is the critical period for flower bud differentiation. At this time, the plant needs to accumulate enough nutrients and complete the morphological differentiation of flower buds at a suitable temperature. High temperature stress will seriously affect the quantity and quality of flower bud differentiation.
5. High incidence of diseases and pests:
   The high temperature and high humidity environment in summer is very likely to induce various diseases and pests, and it is a key period for prevention and control.
   Common diseases: leaf spot (brown spot, anthracnose, etc.), root rot (mainly caused by waterlogging), gray mold (when humid).
   It is necessary to strengthen ventilation, clean up diseased leaves and branches in time, and spray protective fungicides and insecticides regularly for prevention and control.
6. Fertilizer is needed but avoid concentrated fertilizer:
   After flowering (late spring and early summer), compound fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied once to supplement flowering consumption and promote flower bud differentiation and root growth.
   Fertilization should be stopped during the high temperature period in midsummer (usually the hottest in July and August), especially nitrogen fertilizer. At this time, the plant grows slowly or even stagnates. Fertilization not only cannot be absorbed, but it is easy to cause fertilizer damage and burn the root system.
7. Proper pruning:
   After flowering, timely cut off the remaining flowers to avoid fruiting and consuming nutrients.
   In summer, you can appropriately thin out the dense, crossed, inward-growing branches, as well as the weak and dead branches, to improve ventilation and light transmission conditions and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases. Avoid heavy pruning.

Summary of the key points of summer maintenance:

Core contradiction:

Solve the stress caused by high temperature and high humidity.

The first task:
Ensure that drainage is absolutely unobstructed!

It is better to be dry than waterlogged.

Proper shade:Avoid exposure to the sun and reduce local temperature.

Strengthen ventilation:Reduce humidity and reduce pests and diseases.

Water management: “See dry and wet”, avoid water accumulation, and avoid watering during high temperature periods.
Fertilization management: Supplement phosphorus and potassium fertilizers after flowering in early summer, and stop fertilizing during the high temperature period in midsummer.
Pest and disease control:

Regular inspections, timely prevention and treatment.
Pruning:

Cut the remaining flowers after flowering, and lightly thin in summer to improve ventilation.
Understanding and adapting to the core habits of paeoniarockii that they like coolness in summer and are afraid of humidity and heat, and taking the three most critical measures of shading, ventilation, and drainage, are the basis for helping them survive the summer safely and ensuring flowering next year.

Causes and protective measures of diseases and insect pests of paeoniarockii in summer

 The high temperature season in summer is the peak period for diseases and pests of paeoniarockii. The high temperature and high humidity environment is particularly prone to induce a variety of diseases and pests. The following types of problems need to be focused on: 01. Main diseases (mainly fungal, induced by high temperature and high humidity) 02. Root rot:

Cause: Heavy rains or excessive watering in summer lead to waterlogging in the soil, lack of oxygen in the roots, and high temperature, and fungi such as Fusarium and Phytophthora multiply and infect the root system.

Symptoms: The plant grows slowly and wilts (especially obvious at noon on sunny days), and the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Digging up the roots shows that the roots turn brown, black, and rot. In severe cases, the whole plant dies.

Key prevention period: After continuous rain or improper watering. 03. Gray mold:

Cause: In high temperature and humidity (especially hot and humid after rain), Botrytis cinerea infects. Mainly harms flowers, buds, tender stems, and leaves.

Symptoms: Water-soaked brown spots appear on the affected parts (especially withered petals and injured tissues), which quickly expand and are covered with gray-brown or gray-white mold layers. The affected buds cannot open or open abnormally. The affected tender stems are prone to bend.

Key prevention period: flowering period and after flowering, especially after rain. 04. Anthracnose:

Cause: In hot and rainy seasons, anthracnose bacteria infect leaves, petioles, and stems.

Symptoms: Nearly circular or irregular brown, reddish-brown or dark brown spots appear on the leaves. The color of the central part of the spots becomes lighter in the later stage, and sometimes ring patterns or small black spots (conidia) can be seen. In severe cases, the spots are connected, and the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Key prevention period: The whole summer, especially the rainy season and typhoon season. 05. Powdery mildew:

Cause: Although it is more common in spring and autumn, it may also occur in the alternating environment of high temperature, dryness and high humidity in summer.

Symptoms: A layer of white powdery mold covers the surface of leaves, tender shoots, and buds. In the later stage, small black particles (closed asci) may appear in the mold layer. The affected leaves are twisted, deformed, yellowed and fall off.

Key prevention period: In summer, when ventilation is poor, dry and hot. 06. Integrated pest and disease control strategy in the high temperature season in summer 07. Environmental regulation (the most fundamental and most important):

Shading and cooling: During the high temperature and strong light period (10 am to 4 pm), appropriate shading (50%-70% shading rate of shading net) is carried out to reduce the surface temperature and transpiration of the plants and relieve heat stress.

Strengthen ventilation: Avoid dense planting in the planting area to ensure good air circulation between plants and reduce humidity. Potted plants should be placed in a ventilated place.

Shelter from rain: If conditions permit, a simple shelter can be built, especially during the flowering period and continuous rainy period, to effectively reduce the high humidity environment and the spread of pathogens caused by rain.

Scientific watering: Strictly avoid water accumulation! In summer, watering should be done in the early morning or evening, avoiding the high temperature at noon. Adopt the principle of “see dry and see wet”, and water thoroughly after the soil surface is slightly dry. Avoid watering the leaves and try to water the roots.

Improve soil drainage: Choose a high and dry plot with good drainage for ground planting. For potted plants, ensure that the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are unobstructed and use loose and breathable culture soil. You can cover the soil surface with pine scales, ceramsite, etc. to help cool down and retain moisture and reduce rain splashing on the soil. 08. Gardening management:

Clean up diseased and damaged bodies in time: Remove diseased leaves, diseased branches, and withered petals at any time, and take them away from the garden for destruction, which can effectively reduce the source of pathogens.

Reasonable pruning: Remove overcrowded branches and inner branches to increase ventilation and light transmission. Cut off diseased and weak branches.

Avoid damage: Reduce plant wounds, which are an important way for pathogens to infect. 09. Chemical control (as an auxiliary, timely and accurate use):

Preventive spraying: Before the rainy season, after continuous rain, or when sporadic disease spots are observed, spray broad-spectrum protective fungicides (such as mancozeb, thiophanate-methyl, methyl thiophanate, etc.) in time for prevention.

Targeted treatment:

Root rot/blight: When early symptoms are found, root irrigation can be carried out with agents such as benomyl, metalaxyl·mancozeb, and cymoxanil hydrochloride. Severely diseased plants need to be dug out, rotten roots removed, disinfected, replanted or destroyed after soil replacement.

Gray mold/anthraquinone: Use therapeutic fungicides such as azoxystrobin, pyraclostrobin, isoproton, and boscalid.

Powdery mildew: Tebuconazole, myclobutanil, difenoconazole, and kresoxim-methyl can be used.

Red spider: Choose specific miticides such as avermectin, pyridaben, etoxazole, spirodiclofen, bifenazate, etc., and be sure to spray the back of the leaves, and use them alternately to avoid resistance.

Aphids/thrips: Insecticides such as imidacloprid, acetamiprid, thiamethoxam, dinotefuran, and high-efficiency chlorflucythrinate can be used. Note that thrips are mostly in the flowers and on the back of the leaves, and the spraying should be meticulous.

Scale insects: The nymph stage (when the wax shell has not formed or is thin) is the key to prevention and control, and buprofezin, spirotetramat, chlorpyrifos, etc. can be used. The adult stage is protected by the wax shell and the efficacy is poor, so it can be scraped off manually or combined with pruning.

Underground pests: Phoxim granules, clothianidin granules, etc. can be mixed with soil or spread on the soil surface and then hoe shallowly.

Summary of key points  Prevention first, comprehensive prevention and control: Environmental control (shading, ventilation, rain shelter, water control, and drainage) is the core and basis for the prevention and control of purple peony diseases and pests in summer.

Observe frequently, discover early, and deal with it early: Check the plants frequently in summer (especially after rain). Once a small number of diseased leaves, insects or abnormal symptoms are found, remove/catch them immediately and take corresponding measures.

Keep the plants strong: Apply fertilizers reasonably (avoid concentrated fertilizers in high temperatures in summer, and apply thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to enhance resistance) to enhance their own resistance.

Clean the garden: Clean up diseased and fallen leaves and flowers in time to reduce the source of diseases and insects.

Use medicines scientifically: Use medicines accurately when necessary, pay attention to safety and rotation. Through the above comprehensive management measures, the pressure of diseases and insect pests on purple-spotted peonies caused by high temperature and high humidity in summer can be effectively reduced, ensuring their healthy growth and safe summer.

How to manage paeoniarockii in high temperature in summer

 High temperatures in summer are a critical period for the growth and management of paeoniarockii. High temperatures, strong light and rain may cause leaf burns, root rot and other problems. The following summer management points are summarized to help the plants survive the summer safely and lay the foundation for flowering next year:

1. Reasonable watering and drainage
   
   
   
2. Watering principles
   Keep the soil moist but avoid waterlogging. The roots of purple peony are afraid of waterlogging, and waterlogging can easily lead to root rot.

Watering time: early morning or evening, avoid high temperatures at noon, and the water temperature should be close to the soil temperature.

Drought response: Water thoroughly every 5-7 days during continuous drought to prevent the soil from drying and cracking and damaging the roots.

2. Drainage measures
   Check the waterlogging immediately after heavy rain. For ground-planted plants, a circular drainage ditch with a radius of 40 cm can be dug at the base.

Potted plants can be slightly tilted to reduce rainwater accumulation. Straighten and pour out the accumulated water in time after rain.

2. Scientific shading and light management
3. Shading requirements
   Although paeoniarockii likes light, strong light in summer can easily burn leaves, especially seedlings and potted plants.
   Potted plants: move to scattered light or use a shade net (shading rate 30%-50%), and avoid placing it on a concrete floor or other place with strong reflected light.
   Ground planting: plant low plants around or set up a temporary sunshade to reduce the intensity of direct light.
4. Light adjustment
   If the plant has dry tips and dry edges of leaves, it is necessary to strengthen shading and spray water on the leaves to cool down.
5. Fertilization and soil management
6. Fertilization strategy
   Critical period: June-July is the period of flower bud differentiation, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate) need to be supplemented to promote differentiation.
   Note: Suspend fertilization during high temperature periods (above 35°C) and avoid using uncomposted organic fertilizers or concentrated fertilizers to burn roots.
7. Soil improvement
   Covering and moisture retention: Cover the roots with pine needles, shredded bark or straw (3-5 cm thick), which can not only reduce temperature and retain moisture, but also suppress weeds.
   Loosening and ventilation: After rain or watering, loosen the soil shallowly to prevent compaction and improve root respiration.

• IV. Disease and pest control

2. Common diseases
   Leaf spot/brown spot: Spray 600 times of carbendazim or 800 times of thiophanate-methyl, once every 15-20 days.
   Root rot: After controlling water, apply fungicides such as benomyl, and strengthen drainage.
3. Pest control
   Red spider/aphids: Spray avermectin or matrine solution.
   Grubs: Sprinkle phoxim granules for prevention.
   The above measures can effectively reduce the damage of high temperature and humidity in summer to paeoniarockii, ensure the healthy growth of plants, and lay the foundation for root development in autumn and flowering next year. If you need to further optimize the management plan, please refer to the specific planting environment adjustment details.

why the paeoniarockii grafted seedlings cut off the remaining flowers after flowering

 In mid-May, the paeoniarockii has basically finished blooming. Post-flowering management is very important and will affect the flowering and growth effects of the next year.

The paeoniarockii grafted seedlings cut off the remaining flowers after flowering, mainly based on the following key reasons:

1. Reduce nutrient consumption and promote plant growth

- Peony flowering requires a lot of nutrients, especially in the initial stage of root system and rootstock fusion of grafted seedlings, the nutrient reserves of the plant are relatively limited. Timely cutting off the remaining flowers can prevent nutrients from being used for seeding or maintaining flowers, and instead concentrate energy on root system development, new bud differentiation and branch and leaf growth, accumulating more sufficient nutrients for flowering next year.

2. Prevent the breeding of pests and diseases

- If the withered flowers remain on the branches for a long time, they are prone to breeding pathogens such as mold and gray mold due to moisture or rot, and may also attract pests. Cutting off the remaining flowers can reduce the risk of plant infection and maintain overall health.

3. Ensure the survival and adaptation of grafted seedlings

- Grafted seedlings need to focus resources on the healing and adaptation of rootstock and scion in the early stage. Retaining residual flowers may increase the burden on the plant and affect the healing speed and survival rate of the grafted part. Cutting flowers helps the plant to smoothly pass the critical growth period.

4. Promote flower bud differentiation and improve the quality of flowering next year

Flower bud differentiation of peony usually occurs after flowering. Cutting off residual flowers can reduce nutrient diversion, enable the plant to photosynthesize more efficiently, and promote the formation of new flower buds, thereby ensuring larger and more luxuriant flowers next year.

Pruning operation suggestions:

Timing: Prune immediately when the flowers begin to wither and the petals wilt significantly, and avoid delay.

Method: Use sterilized scissors to cut flatly from the base of the pedicel (about 1-2 cm below the calyx) to avoid damaging the new buds.

Subsequent care: After pruning, add appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to enhance the resistance of the plant; keep the soil moist but not too wet to avoid root rot.

Through scientific pruning, purple-spotted peony grafted seedlings can establish a strong plant structure more quickly, laying a solid foundation for their future ornamental value.

Does rockii peony need watering in summer?

 Whether paeoniarockii needs watering in summer needs to be adjusted flexibly according to the specific situation. The following are detailed suggestions:

Does it need watering?

Yes, but it needs to be scientifically controlled

Although purple peony is drought-resistant, the high temperature in summer evaporates quickly, and long-term water shortage may affect its health. The key is to “water thoroughly when it is dry and avoid water accumulation”, which needs to be judged in combination with the following factors:

Key points of watering

1. Observe soil moisture

Judgment method: dig 2-3 cm of the topsoil, if the inside is dry, water it; if it is moist, hold off.

Soil type: Sandy soil dries quickly and can be watered more frequently, clay soil has strong water retention and needs to reduce watering.

2. Watering time

The best time: early morning or evening (avoid the high temperature at noon), to avoid burning leaves or rapid evaporation of water.

Check after rain: If it is cloudy and rainy continuously, water should be controlled to prevent root rot.

3. Amount and method of watering
   Principle of thorough watering: water the roots slowly to ensure that the water penetrates deep into the root system, and avoid only wetting the surface soil.
   Drainage guarantee: ground planting needs to ensure that there is no water accumulation in the planting position, and potted plants need to have drainage holes and gravel pads.
4. Plant status and growth stage
   New seedlings/transplanted seedlings: weak root systems need to keep the soil slightly moist, but avoid water accumulation.
   Adult plants: strong drought tolerance, the watering interval can be appropriately extended.
   Post-flowering management: summer is a period of nutrient accumulation, moderate watering helps recovery, but not too wet.

Precautions
Avoid getting leaves wet: high temperature and high humidity can easily cause fungal diseases (such as leaf spot), aim at the roots when watering.
Extreme weather adjustment: continuous drought can increase the frequency of watering; clear drainage in time after heavy rain to prevent waterlogging.

• Regional climate differences: dry areas in the north need to pay more attention to water replenishment, and rainy areas in the south should pay attention to waterlogging prevention.

Signs of water shortage or overwatering
Symptoms of water shortage: leaves wilt and droop, tender shoots become soft, and soil becomes dry and cracked.
Symptoms of overwatering: leaves turn yellow and fall off, roots turn black and rot, and soil is damp for a long time.
Summary
In summer, watering of purple peony should follow the principle of “better dry than waterlogged”, and adjust flexibly by observing the soil and plant status. Keeping the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged, combined with appropriate shading (such as pulling a shade net), can help it survive the summer safely.